I wanted to mention that while I typically address aging from “the inside” using fillers and botulinum toxin under the skin, I also work with patients on “the outside” with skin care. Although every patient is different, there are certain things that work in almost anyone.
The first step should be used by 100% percent of the population. Everyone should find a gentle cleanser. When I say gentle I mean something that does not irritate the skin. Irritation causes inflammation that breaks down the collagen in our skin. If you are using a harsh cleanser you will be doing more harm than good. If on an irritating cleanser, you would find either a dryness or redness in the skin. I typically tell patients to start investigating different products to see what works and then sticking with it. I will be happy to guide you in this process. Additionally, I will likely be compounding a gentle cleanser within the next few months.
The second step should be routine exfoliation. I typically have patients exfoliate 2-3 times per week to avoid excessive irritation. There are two types of exfoliation and those are chemical and physical. Chemical includes the use of alpha and beta-hydroxy acids. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid and is a good keratiolytic (meaning it removes the dead skin). Glycolic acid and lactic acid are alpha hydroxy acids that also is a keratolytic. I recommend the Gly/Sal Pads or the Glycolic acid pads which can be purchased at Eurolaser.
Physical exfoliation refers to use of a loofa pad or other materials with a course feel to them. Dermoplaning is another way to exfoliate and uses a sharp blade to remove hair and skin cells. Once those dead skin cells are removed, the moisturizer or antioxidant is better able to penetrate. This will result in an improvement in the complexion of the skin within a week or two.
The third step is adding a moisturizer so the healthy skin cells remain that way. Having dry skin will predispose you to inflammation and collagen breakdown. One of the best moisturizers is hyaluronic acid that draws in many times its weight in water. I included this in my anti aging AM cream.
The fourth step is having an antioxidant blend. I have included a fat-soluble vitamin C, green tea extract and other free radical absorbers in my anti-aging AM cream. Also included is Nicinamide which is also known as nicotinic acid or vitamin b3. It is both an antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory. By absorbing the free radicals that damage skin cells and collagen, you may prevent the progression of the inflammation that ages us.
Finally, for those individuals whose skin can accommodate it, I recommend Retin-A, also known as Tretinoin. This is the carboxylic acid form of Vitamin A. This serves to increase the turnover of skin cells and actually stimulates collagen growth. I have included this in my anti-aging PM cream. Tretinoin can make skin dry and flaky so I typically have my patients start at the lowest dose of 0.025% three times weekly to minimize this side effect. As they develop a tolerance I first increase the frequency of the dose to every night and then I increase the strength to 0.05%.
I will be providing a more detailed blog on my skin care line in the near future.
